German Style, clay tile roof with counter batten, copper gutter with mountain roof hanger, copper down spouts, and torch down

"I just can't justify the cost."

Maybe you should read the book "Richistan" and find out how the "new rich" think. If you were putting out a similar quality product and went in and "bid" that roof for 90k....they wouldn't hire you. They'd opt for the 180k guy because that's what they do.

$5000.00 a square for labor on that house is just plan robbery. I guess if you can get it good for you. I don't see that house as worth that investment. I've done 20,000 square ft homes that did not cost that much. Heres a question what ounce cooper did you use for valleys? The flat roof material is wrong for that kind of project. You have a life time room on the step and a 15/20 year roof on the flat. So in a few years you will have a patch job when you try to replace the flat. Should of been copper. The workmanship is great. I would never take away from that. I just can't justify the cost.

TomB Said: gumption?....would have nothing to de w/gumption....Im in business to provide my clients with the best possible product....quality & value....Thats what Im respected for....not thievery....

Im thinking of opening a gas staiton. It will be a fine gas station. Heck, I may even have attendants wash windhields, check oil & tire pressure, fill the tanks....Im going to charge $ 12.00/gallon....How do you think Ill fare?

Maybe if you'd stop rushing through the job and add a little quality into your finished product, you'll figure out how to get 180k for a roof job.

gumption?....would have nothing to de w/"gumption"....I'm in business to provide my clients with the best possible product....quality & value....That's what I'm respected for....not thievery....

I'm thinking of opening a gas staiton. It will be a fine gas station. Heck, I may even have attendants wash windhields, check oil & tire pressure, fill the tanks....I'm going to charge $ 12.00/gallon....How do you think I'll fare?

TomB Said: WEll....This post certianly was enlightening.....Yeah, we wouldve cleared a kool $120,000, minimum....I suppose we could have stretched it out for several weeks.

And yes, to reiterate....The workmanship does reflect European/across the pond influence.

You'll never clear that amount if you don't have the gumption to ask for it.

I kinda wonder why treated lumber was used for the battens. Maybe there wasn't enough money in the budget LOL? In fact, since the secondary weather barrier is placed below the framing, I would insist on treated lumber to be used everywhere up there if I was spending 180 grand! It would add a couple hundred but, since I'd be a millionaire, I'd splurge.

I really love jobs like that. I think tile and stone coateds are my favorites to install. On counter battens are the best too. Love it especially when its a steeper pitch. Can put my bottle a water on the roof w/o it rollin off. ;) You did an excellent job and have great attention to detail i can tell. I love workin with copper.

WEll....This post certianly was enlightening.....Yeah, we would've cleared a kool $120,000, minimum....I suppose we could have stretched it out for several weeks.

And yes, to reiterate....The workmanship does reflect European/across the pond influence.

Nice work, Martin. I like the little detail touches you do like putting that little bend at the bottom of the valley for capillary action control. I like the intricate drainage system the tile has under the top lap. I assume it's there to allow a smaller headlap. Is there hidden step flashings on the dormer sidewalls?

I think I could do that roof with Gladding McBean tile for $45 to $50k. Not including gutters, flat or tearoff. http://www.gladdingmcbean.com/clay_roof_tile/

Several of your details I would do different for my climate, though. I would have an antiponding dripedge system that put any water that ever got to the underlayment into the gutter. I'd have a multi-ribbed deep channel valley metal.

I don't see how you could get much intake ventilation with the nailer board directly behind the vent slits. The first thing the air would need to do is flow downwards.

I think the mountain hangers and log are overkill for that situation. With the small, tapering roofs above them, slide protection could have been provided with a less visually obtrusive system. But I know how certain customers would think they look rugged.

I don't mean to sound like I'm criticizing anything, as I said nice work, Martin.

Nice work. Price is about right. These and slate can last a really long time. I expect my slate roofs to last several generations of owners. This will too. I've never sealed the battens before. I do like the attention to breathability. As for the dormer window, I always take them apart too. Some get a full pan like that one appears to have.

I don't bother bidding or doing those 'quick, get her done fast jobs'. They have little to offer for mental stimulation. :cheer:

.In my opinion, a roof is worth whatever you can get for it. If you are very good and do top quality work...and you do the work and don't sub it out to every tom dick and harry.

LOL....this job was subbed out!

Obviously you guys have never tried to install a clay tile roof. $18,000 would buy the trim for that project. My guess is that he had about $55,000 in materials. Those are counter-battens on the roof that allow the air to move beneath the tile. The copper work is superb.

In my opinion, a roof is worth whatever you can get for it. If you are very good and do top quality work...and you do the work and don't sub it out to every tom dick and harry.. or pablo or Raul, you have a right to show off a bit and make a ton of money. Nothing to split when you do the work yourself. Nice job Martin.

I'm curious about the 1/3 furring strips. I'm assuming that these are located directly over the rafters. Are they?

Do you bed the furr strips in sealant? Is there any danger of water getting trapped under the furr strips and causing mold or rotting them out?

In Europe the roofs are not "plywooded" so the reason for the 1x's (battens) is to hold the tile and yes they are located on the rafters. I don't know why Marten would use a sealant on them, we have roofed thousands of sq ft using this system and not one tube of caulk was used. Not saying it is detrimental just unnecessary. As for moisture being trapped under the bettens- on a correctly installed tile roof it won't happen.

Martin, beautiful work. What fasteners were used on the tile? At 5 grand a sq I dont see it as unreasonable. It is, after all a lifetime roof and likely will never need replacing. I imagine also that the tile cost a chunk per square. The seam on seam batten in pic three would be a no-no. Also I see no bleed out on the modified in pic four, is it a self adhered underlayment? Love to see straight hip lines, Good job

Vaa Fakaosifolau Said: White Granule Torchon? geez that must have been hard to keep unmarked while doing the tiles. In the photos it looks Grey (trick of the camera)

The Tile roof looks kind of Japanese style with those curved hip/ridge tiles, certainly adds a bit of extra class to it. :) Vented copper drip flashings, never seen those before, whats the idea behind that?

After we worked with torch down, we put a blue tarpet over the white granulate. The reason for the vented copper is, that air comes between the tiles and the undelayment and brings the damp up to the ridge. The ridge and the hipps are also a vented system B)

Now...I'm curious about the labor bill.

How many hours does it take to put that roof on. I would guess (this is a WAG)6 guys about two, maybe three weeks. I pulled that number from the sky....I have no clue as to how much time something like that takes.

Most times we will sacrifice real craftsmanship at the altar of expediency. While we are still capable of recognizing the value of something that has been expertly constructed,we will bow down and kneel to the cheap and fast. Kiss the feet of an easy option instead. B) ;) ;) B)