WALL FLASHING

MY QUESTION IS WHICH FLASHING IS BETTER FOR WALLS AND CHIMNEYS ..I LIKE TO USE A STEP FLASHING ABOUT 5X8 I WAS ALWAYS TAUGHT A REAL ROOFER DOES NOT NEED TAR ..BUT I LIVE IN FLORIDA NOW AND EVERY ROOFER USES TAR ..FOR EVERYTHING SO THEY ARE TELLING ME TO USE A CONTINIOUS WALL FLASHIN OR ''BULL FLASHING" AS THEY CALL WHERE YOU TAR THE WHOLE THING ALL THE WAY DOWN ...AND MAKE A HELL OF A MESS ..I LIKE TO STAY TRUE TO WHAT I WAS TAUGHT BUT THEY HAVE ME SECOND GUESSING MYSELF SO IM REACHING OUT FOR SOME ANSWERS OR OPINIONS THANK YOU

Wall flashings are the principal reasons for roof leakage. We have used all the methods described above, and I respectfully suggest, that it the location that should determine proper usage. In the Mid-Atlantic, where we endure severe temperature change, the wall and roof deck move at different rates, therefore, the flashings should be designed to accomidate potential movement.

Listen up.....those who wish for State Licencing. Be careful what you wish for. You just might get it all and much you don't want. B) :) :) B) Deep Down In Florida Where The Sun Shines Damn Near Every Day

colletti Said: i still cant figure out how a bunch of guys with collared shirts who probably never been on a roof can sit around and make up codes...and then a bunch of guys who never installed any roofs go around and enforce these codes ...90%of the roofing contractors ive met in fla never installed a roof ..they know how to read a book and they had a some money to back them self ...it is a damn shame ...that the state does not make these guys take a real test on the ROOF ...i bet there would not be to many new roofing contractors out there

It does. What Darryl told me was that everything has to be sealed eight inches in from every rake, every wall, and every jack.

I also recall several other discussions about Florida laws. The one that floored me was that a homeowner could wind up in jail for roofing his own house.

The weather might be good there most of the time, but what with the umpteen inspections, the seventy-pages of wind calcs that have to accompany every permit application (according to Jeff from days of old), the foam patties to glue down tile, I'd rather not ply this trade there at all.

I have never seen any evidence of blowoffs starting from agains a sidewall. The whole spec seems stupid.

Welcome to the "real" world. You study hard to determine who the guilty parties are, .....and then you punish the innocent. If it made sense, it would not happen. On the other hand, I have seen a lot of "roofers" that haven't a clue too. There is plenty of blame to cover all the bases.

i still cant figure out how a bunch of guys with collared shirts who probably never been on a roof can sit around and make up codes...and then a bunch of guys who never installed any roofs go around and enforce these codes ...90%of the roofing contractors ive met in fla never installed a roof ..they know how to read a book and they had a some money to back them self ...it is a damn shame ...that the state does not make these guys take a real test on the ROOF ...i bet there would not be to many new roofing contractors out there

OSB in HigH VelOcity Hurricane ZOneS Hurricane Andrew tested the effectiveness of the SFBC in 1992. Andrew was a class 4 Hurricane that originated in the Cape Verde area of the tropical North Atlantic Ocean. It wrought unprecedented damage along a path through the northwestern Bahamas, the southern Florida peninsula and south-central Louisiana between August 22 and 25. The hurricane struck southern Miami-Dade County, Florida with violent winds and storm surges resulting in the loss of 30 lives and leaving over 250,000 people homeless. Damage estimates were as high as 30 billion dollars to residences, commercial and institutional buildings. The aftermath of the storm drew the attention of many organizations, which sent expert teams to investigate the damage and determine the principle reasons for the destruction. Hurricane Andrew was not ive in its fury: it severely damaged or destroyed buildings of wood frame, concrete block, reinforced concrete and steel construction. Most severely damaged were mobile homes, industrial buildings and residential subdivisions on the south edge of MiamiDade County, where new developments were unsheltered from the full force of the storm. Reacting to the severe damage to roof structures and the loss of roof covering, the Miami-Dade County Board of County Commissioners enacted an emergency ordinance effectively banning certain materials including OSB roof sheathing and building practices such as the use of staples from new construction or repair. The ordinance continues to be in effect to this day. The 2004 edition of the consolidated Florida Building Code allows the use of OSB as wall “storm” sheathing as follows: “Exterior stud walls shall be sheathed to resist the racking load of wind as set forth in Section 1620 and the concentrated loads that result from hurricane-generated wind-borne debris as set forth in Section 1626 of this code and shall be a minimum 19/32 inch (15 mm) plywood or Product Approved structural panel, rated Exposure 1 and shall be applied to studs spaced not more than 16 inches (406 mm) on center. Wall sheathing shall be continuous over three or more supports and shall be nailed to such supports with 8d common nails. Nail spacing shall not exceed 6 inches (152 mm) on center at panel edges and all intermediate supports, and shall be 4 inches (102 mm) on center at corner studs, in all cases. When siding such as shingles is nailed only to plywood or Product Approved structural panel sheathing, the panels shall be applied with face grain across studs.” OSB has statewide product approval in Florida via reference to US DOC PS 2, Performance Standard for Wood-Based Structural-Use Panels. However stricter ordinances may be in place in certain jurisdictions. Please consult with the local Building Department before specifying. B) :) :) B) Deep Down In Florida Where The Sun Shines Damn Near Every Day

So Chuck, when is the Fla. code going to change and forbid OSB in the state? It would seem they'd want planks which honestly will hold a nailed down object? As for flashing, I've always nailed the outer lower corner, just above the nail line after pushing the step into place, and that nail also adds a nail to the one before. It works in Hatteras. A dad of any caulk between the steps to kill the capillary action is all it takes.

Perhaps. Tell that to code enforcement when they tag the job for lack of compliance. In High wind and flying debris area when you are pulling the flashing out a neighbors eye or killed one of his pets even driven it through the wall of his house etc. It can and will blow off causing potential damage. It may not leak until that happens of course. Leaking and aesthetically pleasing is only part of the issue. B) :) :) B) Deep Down In Florida Where The Sun Shines Damn Near Every Day

Ciak: it says 1 OR 2 not to do it as # 2. I would say you could do it correctly by code.

You are welcome. You have it backwards my friend. Do it too code and do it right. It is a intuitive symbiotic relationship. B) :) :) B) Deep Down In Florida Where The Sun Shines Damn Near Every Day

i understand that is the florida code to bull and membrane everything but however in the last 5 years ive only done repairs and 80% of the leaks i fix are walls chimneys and skylights where they bull flashed it with continuos flashing and i would say that most of the roofs are less then 10 years old ...i think if who ever made up these stupid ass codes would think about it for a second they would realize continous flashing is not the answer ..i do agree that as a secondary they should def be sealed down so they dont blow away but they should do away with the continuos ...or not because i am cleaning house fixing this bullshit work that these previous guys have done ...but anyway thank you for everyones input ..it basically boils down to do it right or do it to code lol :(

Old School Said: Flashing does not come in a bucket! Does your step flashing sytem leak? If not, why change?

We will normally install a layer of Grace I&W at the break of the chimney, 6 out and 6 up and then install the steps and then the counter-flashing. DONT cut the shingles tight against the wall, leave about 3/8 gap so that the water can flow by un-impeded. You are on the right track.

i havent had any wall leaks to the best of my knowledge but im still a young roofer only been doing it for about 20 years ..and i also use grace on the deck and up the wall noting beats that system ..

I went through this issue with Darryl a few years ago and what emerged out of some initial miscommunication is this:

1. It's not about traditional techniques versus goober techniques. 2. It's not about old-world craftsmanship versus jackleg practice. 3. It's about local codes which are formed in response to local conditions.

When you see a label that says, "Miami/Dade" that is in reference to testing or standards, translate that to mean Florida and translate that to mean a neighborhood that has hurricanes passing through with little notice on a regular basis. It's all about insane amounts of wind.

That means that everything has to be glued down and fastened twice.

Just accept it for what it is. The rest of us in other more benign climates can debate the status of the jackleg at our leisure because all of our fine workmanship won't be flying through the neighbors' window when we least expect it, any time of the day or night. I hate the idea of cementing down beautiful copper parts, but I would hate even more to have a piece of copper sticking half out of my forehead.