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May 9, 2013 at 7:17 a.m.

OLE Willie

They can't even fix a simple leak around a vent.

Here's what I found on arrival. The leak is directly below the vent and another directly below the pipe.

The "work" was done by one of the larger outfits in town.

Here was my simple solution to the problem.

My shirt was already dirty and this was the last job of the day so I just took it off and used it to dry up this water so the storm guard would stick properly.

There was actually only one leak at the vent but then some of the water was running down to the pipe and leaking at the pipe because of being trapped under it.

Geocel was applied on top of the storm guard around where the pipe collar and vent are and both were set in the sealant just in case water ever got under there then the I/W would still keep it out of the house. The I/W would bring the water back out on top of the shingles just below the pipe. Geocel was also used to seal that tab down to the pipe flashing base at the bottom left of the pipe flashing where the cut out in the 3-tab shingle is.

May 20, 2013 at 7:47 p.m.

OLE Willie

lol I live in the countryside lanny. 30 miles north of the largest city in my state. The job was 20 miles south of the city.

But i had a couple other things to do in the city so the whole 100 mile round trip wasn't just for the repair.

That's the way it goes when you live in the woods. You do everything you can think of "while your in town".

:laugh:

May 20, 2013 at 11:36 a.m.

lanny

---50 miles for a repair??? ---I just turned down a 110 sq tear-off that was about 54 miles away. Too far to travel.

Lanny

May 20, 2013 at 4:42 a.m.

OLE Willie

I'm not concerned about it leaking due to that because the end of the tab was sealed down to the base of the flashing but after downloading the pics I ended up wishing I had installed a small piece there for cosmetic reasons.

Truth is, that it will never matter but as tinner said in another post it turned out to be one of those things that "niggled" at me.

May 19, 2013 at 8:45 p.m.

Old School

If you are concerned about the small lip on the flashing, just put a piece of shingle under it and then nail it down. You can "extend' the flashing like that and it works too.

May 16, 2013 at 5:34 a.m.

twill59

Yeah I don't know why they don't make them better either. Then again I don't know why electrical boxes are so friggin' small either.

May 15, 2013 at 9:10 p.m.

OLE Willie

Although it sounds logical to use a flap vent and may have been a better choice, I never had a problem due to using a 750 vent. And I've used them for nearly 20 years.

There have been NO fires and NO calls about lint clogging or build up. And yes my phones have been fully operational the whole time.

I have also been back on several jobs where I used a 750 vent years later to do other repairs and there were NO problems with lint collecting in the 750 vents.

The dryer duct work is supposed to be cleaned at least once a year regardless of the kind of vent on top. There is a lot of room inside those 750's. It would take a ton of lint to fill it up to the point of clogging. It would take years and the cause would be from not cleaning out the duct work which like i said has to be done irregardless of the type of vent on top.

If not cleaned the duct work can clog up with lint and cause a fire or other problems even with a flap vent.

This job had the straight, smooth inside, hard metal pipe ( which is resistant to lint build up ) and not the flex pipe type. I checked the inside of the pipe for lint and found NONE!

I was voted "Most Controversial" my senior year!

That's my story and I'm stickin' to it!

Why do they only make the sides of the base flashing on the little vent flaps like a half inch wide? This is what deters me from using them!

May 15, 2013 at 9:01 p.m.

twill59

Don't know what's funny. I had a dryer clog once. There are instructions on the box to remove the screen.

Even if it does not catch fire, it makes the dryer work harder.

If it vents the bathroom (which most do) it is less of an issue all around except for back draft/ short circuit, but that is prolly less of an issue down south

May 15, 2013 at 8:50 p.m.

OLE Willie

lol

May 15, 2013 at 8:48 p.m.

twill59

Everyone is right about the lint Willie. You are doing a good job.

Now go and do a better job.

May 15, 2013 at 8:28 p.m.

Old School

They make vents for them that have a flapper that opens and closes when the dryer goes on. the lint is nothing to think lightly of. It will clog and make the dryer heat up and possibly catch fire.

May 15, 2013 at 6:09 p.m.

OLE Willie

CIAK: natty has a point about the lint.

Well, over 20 yrs. I've had one or two others comment about putting the 750 vents over dryer exhaust.

And while maybe Its a practice I shouldn't have started to begin with, it has worked fine for the entire 20 yrs. without a single problem.

These are the type practices I choose to stick with. The trouble free ones.

In the unlikely event it did clog up with lint the bottom screen could easily be cut out all but the top part,then bent up and the lint removed. Then bend the screen back down.

But honestly I don't think that day will ever come!

May 15, 2013 at 2:23 p.m.

Rockydog

Here here. Were not working for wages, you know. There are bills to be paid

May 15, 2013 at 11:29 a.m.

CIAK

Willie I think that is more than a fair price. What you should have included in that list, your skill and experience . Throw that in and you under sold it. If it leaks you haven't covered your cost. natty has a point about the lint . Good job. B) :) :) B) Deep Down In Florida Where Te Sun Shines Damn Near Every Day

May 14, 2013 at 10:24 a.m.

OLE Willie

natty:

I have put those type vents over the dryer vent pipes for over 20 years and never had a single problem.

This is a 10 yr. old roof with a new 10 yr. pipe flashing. Its a 20 yr. shingle with 10 yrs. left but I doubt it makes it that far. The roof will be replaced before that pipe collar needs replaced again.

If that's what you call crap then it has not become the standard around here. It has BEEN the standard for as long as I can remember. ( over 30 yrs )

You thinking $450 is robbery makes me wonder if you are an insurance adjuster!

I made two round trips to this job and a trip to pick up materials. It's 50 miles from my location to this job one way. That is over 200 miles in metropolitan traffic at nearly 4 dollars a gallon. My truck gets 15 mpg.

So I used roughly 14 gallons of gas at a cost of around $50 bucks total. Drove an average of 50 mph so I spent 4 hours riding time. 2 more hrs to pick up the materials and do the work in the 88 degree heat! 6 hrs involved in this project.

gas = 50 materials = 50

$100 in gas and material alone knocked it down to $350 in a hurry Leaving 60 an hr.( which is a little under the going rate for service ) and out of that comes Licenses, Insurance, Advertising, and many other costs that you should be aware of.

This is not a "side thing" for me. I do nearly all roof repairs with only a sprinkle of replacements.

This roof has been greatly improved and no more leaks.

May 13, 2013 at 10:02 p.m.

natty

OLE Willie Said: Geez!

Everyone in this area uses the neoprene collars. They last around 10 years here.

What a bunch of stand up guys. Lifetime shingles and 10 year vents...the roofing business is nothing but a racket. (I realize that is a 20 year shingle in the picture, but still?) When crap becomes the standard, something is wrong.


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