what to do with a rubber roof

Bob P. Said: Wow!!!! Now I know why I dont frequent this site as much as I used to. Too much Bull $H!# handed out when honest questions are posted.

Copperman,

You pose a very good question that can have a windfall of answers. I dont know where you are located but you may want to make sure that you are not in an area where building permits are required and/or where people actually know and enforce building codes. Apparently, a lack of knowledge or blatant disregard for code standards seems to be displayed by some of the posters here. I agree with those who recommended that you take a few cores and verify existing roof assembly profile and conditions. If there is an existing asphalt BUR underneath the EPDM, the BUR was probably recovered because......it leaked??? wet insulation....corroded deck....etc.

Section 1510.3 of the International Building Code (IBC) is very prescriptive in addressing new roof coverings. This standard requires any roof that has 2 or more coverings or wet substrate, to be removed completely down to the deck.

Since money is the issue, dont throw good money at it by going with spray and pray recommendations and expect anything more than wasted time, effort and money. If your bother in law cant afford to do it as close to right as possible, at least try and do it RIGHT in phases and spread the cost out over a few years. Id much rather see someone commit to doing less square footage RIGHT, than do more square footage half-A$$ed. There are many in the market place that are very ready and willing to take the money and run.

Good luck, BP

The bitterness of poor quality is remembered long after the sweetness of low price has faded from memory.” - Aldo Gucci

I'm glad you've graced us with your presense, superior knowledge, and advanced morality.

Most questions asked here assume two things that need not be typed each and every time: 1. It is assumed the repairs will be according to "local" code. 2. Most contractors know, without you having to inform them, that they can't go over a saturated deck.

Some contractors operate in the hyper-ruled realm of roofing exactly how some government authority tells them to do things. That, evidently, is how you operate your business. Great, knock yourself out. However, many of us operate in the real world where the building owner's needs do not always align perfectly with how some INTERNATIONAL building code "government" body wants it to be done. Some of us operate under that goofy notion that this is still a free country (at least for a little longer) where the building owner gets to repair his building any damn way he wants, so long as he doesn't violate any law or "local" code. If it doesn't meet yours or an internation code entity's standard, tough noogies.

These soapbox sermons typically come from people who aren't equipped to offer the building owner options beyond those dull, tired, shortlasting conventional roofing methods. Thus everyone who doesn't do things their way is some fly-by-night charlaton. The trouble with that notion is that I have on more "spray and pray" roofs, over BURs that have last 2-3 times longer than the typical new BUR lasts even when torn to the deck. So, BP, when you can show me some of your retrofit roofs that have been on 27 years and are still watertight, only then will you be qualified to preach to anyone about them.

Hopefully this thread will remind you why you're too good for RCS and you can once again vanish into the ether. It will be rough going without you but, I guess we'll manage somehow.

Wow!!!! Now I know why I don't frequent this site as much as I used to. Too much Bull $H!# handed out when honest questions are posted.

Copperman,

You pose a very good question that can have a windfall of answers. I don't know where you are located but you may want to make sure that you are not in an area where building permits are required and/or where people actually know and enforce building codes. Apparently, a lack of knowledge or blatant disregard for code standards seems to be displayed by some of the posters here. I agree with those who recommended that you take a few cores and verify existing roof assembly profile and conditions. If there is an existing asphalt BUR underneath the EPDM, the BUR was probably recovered because......it leaked??? wet insulation....corroded deck....etc.

Section 1510.3 of the International Building Code (IBC) is very prescriptive in addressing new roof coverings. This standard requires any roof that has 2 or more coverings or wet substrate, to be removed completely down to the deck.

Since money is the issue, don't throw good money at it by going with "spray and pray" recommendations and expect anything more than wasted time, effort and money. If your bother in law can't afford to do it as close to right as possible, at least try and do it RIGHT in phases and spread the cost out over a few years. I'd much rather see someone commit to doing less square footage RIGHT, than do more square footage half-A$$ed. There are many in the market place that are very ready and willing to take the money and run.

Good luck, BP

"The bitterness of poor quality is remembered long after the sweetness of low price has faded from memory.” - Aldo Gucci

A mechanically attached fleeced back thermoplastic membrane on the top of existing roof could be the cheapest best option.The material cost around $1 a sq/ft.

Shoot 9/3 emulsion/chopped fiberglass over it, or add poly fabric if it's really in bad shape. Emulsion will let some trapped moisture vent out just like a Goretex ski jacket lets sweat out but doesn't let moisture back in. Fraction of the cost of a new roof.

hey copperman, youre gonna need a core sample or 3. so you know how many layers,and how long of fasteners you'll need. if its only the bur and the epdm roof then there 2-3 options. if you dont find water under the bur then can overlay. if you find alot of water you'll need to tear off cause you'll trap moisture under new roof and rust out the decking. so if you do overlay i'd tear off the existing epdm roof. it'll come up fast and easy. then use 1/2" fiberboard insulation. this is where you'll need to know what size fasteners so you can screw down the insulation. dont forget plates, lol. then i'd go fully adherd epdm. torch will require base sheet (extra expense plus added risk of fire). got any pics? good luck to ya. shaggy

Yup, Core sample sounds good to me.

I would be concerned with creating a double vapor barrier. Sounds like you have that already. If rubber is laying directly on the BU roof, then that is probably the cause of the 'early death' of the rubber. Rubber & asphalt /petroleum based products are not compatible.

Take a core sample down to the metal deck and see what all you're dealing with.

Hey Copper, Money is the issue. 1st option... lay sleepers down. 1" X Whatever. Then lay your ply. Base and cap.

2nd option... yes lay your temptest, or Black Joe, but how uneven would that turnout to be? That's your call. Where does it drain?

3rd option.... If your doing a Mod Bit. Clean your deck. Lay you Base and Cap.

4th option.... get a kettle, and flood it. It should bonded nicely with the exsisting. Are there parapitts?

I think it"s starting to sound like a load bearing weight issue if there are a few layers of roofing applications. :dry: