Any options for a cap on this tile at the top of walls? I mean replace the rubber roof, eliminate existing tile caps caps and add a sealed flashing?

Tile is rare here and I have no experience with it. PLUS this stuff seems to be painted and there are quite a few broken damaged ones now, like 10% that could be replaced. How many more would we damage in the removal process?
I just figure it's best to plan ahead
Yes, rubber back on woody. Our 1st approach was just to cut rubber on the roof side of wall and leave the caps/ cap detail IF the owner was Cost Averse.
Well the owner IS Cost Averse, but also wants to take the rubber up & over the wall and complete this 100% w/ a new metal cap.
Which is a better job than cutting the rubber, but Cost Averse now turns into Cost Addition B)
I agree completely.
On a job like this, you need to balance cost vs. the ideal installation. 70's era mansards don't have much visual appeal to me and I see little difference aesthetically between a metal cap and tile trim in this instance.
It wouldn't surprise me if the existing installation has no weather blocking beneath the trim. I could do the new flashing detail including wood nailer, metal, peel-and-stick and labor for $6 to $8 per foot. Salvaging the existing trim, replacing broken, installing a nailer, painting (at least 2 coats) the replacement trim, mudding or fleximing would all be much more labor intensive, probably approaching $20 per foot. Doubling up the trim would add another $10 per foot. This is hardly an historical renovation, so I just don't think going all out on it would be justified.
Tom, are you putting rubber back on it? If so, you could use a roll of rubber P-and-S for weather blocking.
Perhaps that's so, but to get rid of that ugly long top course, he's going to have to rotate the cap, at which point, without restructuring the parapet framing, it will no longer seat properly. I'm assuming once the flexim goes on, you'd have a fair amount of prep to do before the aqua paint will stick.
You can put two caps on and make one cover the lap of the other. With Flexim it would be easy, and since he has to give the guy a price, it only makes sense. My thoughts anyway. I can get plenty of the caps.
I'm not sure why we are even having this discussion about mortar vs. flexim when the way the parapet is structured now the cap tile is too small to properly cover all that it has to. Yes? No?
TWILL 269-806-1266 or better yet, 269-381-6382. If you guys need Flexim, I can get it for you!
Flexim can be very hard to obtain in many areas. The only time I ever used it was in the 90's. Allied had it listed as one of their products, but after months of waiting for it to come in, I had to take a different route to get it. A Monier salesman that was from GB got it to me from The Netherlands and then they were only able to sell to me because I was distributor at the time. Even at wholesale price it was far more expensive than mudding by a factor of more than 20.
It would be easier to keep in place at that pitch, though.
I've tried calling you before.......
Call me!! You want to use Flexim for that and new ridge tiles.
Cut strips 7-9" wide of a good, flexible peel-and-stick like Grace I&W HT, and apply it to the tile surface before the metal for a barrier.
wywoody Said: If you go with a flashing that goes down over the tile, put a downwards bend of about 20 degrees about 3/4 of an inch from the bottom, either with a hem or just a kick. It will help you with variations of the tile surface.
I am concerned with the gaps in the low spots of the tile.........should I fill them? I am thinking birds, wind uplift, bees nests....
Oh, yeah...and then you can etch it and prime it and paint it aqua and it will look perfect.
If you go with a flashing that goes down over the tile, put a downwards bend of about 20 degrees about 3/4 of an inch from the bottom, either with a hem or just a kick. It will help you with variations of the tile surface.
Thanks O/S. I appreciate that help. But the owner at this point has decided to go with a different cap than the tiles