I am interested in how you shinglers who will do 2nd layers treat flashing where a roof meets a wall. Like on an attached garage. Do you cut the shingles tight, apply a bead of tar or caulk, install new step flashings? I run into so many repairs where this is what we are correcting and I am curious how you deal with it.
Robby the Roofer Said: Heres your wierd reasoning....Well, that explains that. And come to think of it, I've seen stuff like that on jobs I didn't get the contract for. Now, I just go for the clients that don't ask about cost until the I'm near the 1/2 way point of the job.Customer is buying an overlay, the cheapest re-roof
And...most dont want the extra work done...because it will cost more money. Sometimes you just do what you can to make the customer happy and get the contract. On the flip side, you price the roof how it needs to be done and price yourself out of that market.
Here's your wierd reasoning....
Customer "is" buying an overlay, the cheapest re-roof
And...most don't want the extra work done...because it will cost more money. Sometimes you just do what you can to make the customer happy and get the contract. On the flip side, you price the roof how it needs to be done and price yourself out of that market.
"On some of the very old buildings in our area, the siding meets the deck, so on overlays, your only option "is" to use sealant at the transition point....preferably non-silicone caulking based on shingles."
Now, there's a weird answer. ;) In those cases, the siding gets raised. If reusing the old,(good), steps, cut the shingles about 4-6" from the wall, remove the nails and shingles pieces, put the cut out pieces back in under the steps to keep the deck level, and flash it back in. If not using the old one, raise the siding, and add the new in. Personally, I've never seen use for goop on a shingle roof., Except for chimney corners, and counter-flashing. And touching up the lead heads for a good seal.
On some of the very old buildings in our area, the siding meets the deck, so on overlays, your only option "is" to use sealant at the transition point....preferably non-silicone caulking based on shingles.
The last time i did a layover was at the airport! lol
---We never use mastic for that application. We do recovers and always reflash the walls. Most likely we add new step flashing right over what is there. If the siding is too tight to add flashing we reuse the existing by digging out the old shingle & pulling all the nails. ---We also replace all the vents & pipe flashings and add new flashing to any skylights & chimneys. ---In ideal conditions the mastic can never leaves the truckbed. Lanny
Years ago when we overlaid, we would set the shingles in a bed of cement along the walls. We don't do that anymore, because we rarely do a layover. What I have done is to cut the old shingles out and expose the step flashings. Then you can reuse them if they are still good. Aluminum flashings usually are. If you do much more than that, you might just as well do a tearoff.
Never do lay overs, we always tear off, step flashing at all intersecting sidings, if brick , we cut reglets, step and counter, seal reglets.