Metal roof tearoff w/ cantilevered walls & built-in gutter

What do you guys think? They aren't redoing the walls or the BIG as I expected they would. I'm thinking about bowing out, but this is for the city and it's right uptown.

Main concerns, getting flashing behind that wall. Transition from flashing wall to valley. They want I&W 100% w/ 30yr architecturals on top.

Any thoughts?

Actually the guy in charge is a very respectable contractor, but he still wants it done as a value roof. He advised another contractor to steer clear of it, because it might be hairy.

I'm going to bid it with enough to R&R the wall metal. I was for some reason worried about how we would transition from the flashing wall into the valley. The metal cover next to the BIG was making me over think it. :huh: :blink:

If she goes she goes, if she blows she blows.

I don't know if I'd walk away just yet. IF it's worth pursuing, it'd be worth getting some more answers. Does not sound like the powers that be are ready to commit to any solution.

Perhaps drill down a little deeper. Get a budget number. Find out if they are going to tear the building down in 5 years.

I guess I'm a little bothered still.....last year I looked at a county building and the engineer "Writing the specs" pulled some info up off a manufacturers website.

Wow. We paid for that? Anyway I passed on it. As far I know, none of the metal panel mfg'ers. allow fastening to 7/16" OSB.......except maybe the Amish.

The gutter looks capped to me

You can't see the BIG? I know my pictures suck, I should have took some more.

Thanks for the input. I might just budget in taking the walls off completely. Or I might bow out, still debating.

I would insist appropriate roof-to-wall flashing details.

The gutters don't appear as built-in to me.....Possibly some half-azz detail? Gutters gotta go as well.

Like someone said in an earlier post, you are the pro tell them the right way to do it and stick to your guns, otherwise your playing below yourself. A stout underlayment is always an option on a low slope. Just a suggestion from a pic.

I'm fairly worried about opening up a can of worms on those side walls. They've been caulked, and some of the cleats let the metal just pull right off.

Thanks for the replies. I'm going to talk to the man in charge and see if I can disassemble some of it before I bid. I was told one of the two other contractors was only up on the roof for about two minutes and left.

I'll probably pass though.

I'd tell them they need to tear the siding off the wall. put ice and water on it and reinstall it.

Oh and there is no architect, just guys in power trying to save money.

It's about a 3/12. Don't know why 100% I&W, that doesn't really bother me too much. BIG's have no issues, been caulked some. Myself and the contractor who I work w/ on city jobs thought they were going to take the walls and BIG's out. The walls are cantilevered, hard to tell from the pics.

My main issue is in the second picture. Running the step flashing up the wall should go fine, but transferring to shingles as low as the BIG. I can't come up w/ a solution I'm proud of.

I'm the same way Chuck. If I think it's going to leak before it's day has come, no problems w/ letting someone else do it! But this is for the city and we get their roofs usually. Small town life. :unsure:

When it comes to specs on a roof job, I'm like the bad apple in a relationship. It's my way or the highway. :laugh:

That's a lifetime roof. Leave it alone :laugh:

What slope is it? Why 100% I&W? What Is the issue with BIG's?

If you are not comfortable with the specs, bow out then. I've noticed it's hard to overrule the architect...or the garbageman, or the guy in the bar with all of knowledge