lead paint

http://www.epa.gov/lead/pubs/renovation.htm#contractors Anybody go through this training coarse yet. Here in PA we all need to be trained on lead removal if you work on a home built before 1978.

---I am guessing that today's pewter is lead-free. It is just a base metal with a dull finish that resembles the pewter look. That is so it will not be dangerous. Lanny

Thanks Lanny, that sounds like what I had in mind for a setup. I've ordered the ladle online and will be casting my first plaster mold today. So I'll be set to go when the ladle gets here.

One thing about the lead hazard I learned while researching this. Pewter was used for cooking vessels and toys for centuries. It's currently in vogue for door handles. You never hear a thing about it being hazardous. But as I learned, pewter is the lowest temp alloy you can make. All you have to do is melt a mixture of 75% tin, 25% lead.

---You can melt it right on the kitchen stove...but I would never do it indoors... ---I use a cast iron skillet that is about 3 inches deep. I set it on an old BBQ grate between to cinderblock bricks. I then use my propane torchdown torch laying on the ground pointing at the skillet. I can adjust the heat with the torch control. ---I try to remain upwind so as not to breath the fumes...you could wear a mask... ---I have about a dozen professional molds from "Lil Mac." Check them online. You could use almost anything, however. I have about 4 weight belt molds and some sinker molds (aluminum) and some generic cast iron misc. You need several as you have to wait for the lead to cool before it will come out of the mold. I suppose you could dunk them in water. ---I am continually feeding lead into the melt pot while I release the lead from the molds. Oh, I also have a cast iron ladle for pouring. You will need a ladle because you will not be able to lift the skillet with molten lead in it. I also have a section of "rabbit hutch" screen for skimming slag floating in the pot. ---Lead melts at around 600 degrees which is a fairly low temp. ---Kind of a fun hobby. Try pouring molten lead into a 5 gallon bucket full of water. There are all kinds of things you can do. ---By the way there will be some drips and misc waste around the work area. You will want to do this on a piece of plywood or other barrier so as to be able to clean everything up when done. You don't want to do this in the kids play area. I throw the plywood away when I am done. Lanny

:laugh: I forgot to mention valleys. Seldom see a roof with valleys have less than 30'.

You're right though. It's nothing to get into a bother about. I mean, who cares? What it will boil down to is the interpretation of the lead inspector and how much lead/paint he decides you got involved with. He'll be a bureaucrat. It'll be easy to prove him/her wrong, and just continue doing what we always did. It shouldn't be any harder than proving OSHA wrong. And that's easy enough to do. ;)

---I used to do county work where these rules applied. I could replace facia, siding or other lead based paint as long as I didn't cut into it and create dust. Just removing a board with lead paint was no problem at all. Nor was there any problem dumping it in the regular trash. Maybe the rules have changed??? Lanny

I do not see that this new sack of shi-rules has any affect on most roofers. I do not intend to worry about it.

Many of us have to remove and replace siding on shed roofs we're doing. Dormer sides. Dormer windows and sills, fascias, not to even mention long walls where we remove and replace old counterflashing. Me? I might be pulling 20 square of tin roof off with 30 coats of lead based paint on them. I gquess wrapping each section in plastic before tossing will suffice with that.

Well what about dormers and walls were you have to re-flash. You will be disturbing the paint. Removing old gutter and paint is peeling off behind it. I see all kinds of areas where roofers will be impacted

BTW, I meant to post our website: [url]http://www.roofedright.com/url]

Hey guys,

I know there is a lot of confusion with these lead rules, but I am am a Lead Abatement Supervisor in Wisconsin and, no, you don't just go get "chelation" unless you are at a severe risk of irrecoverable sickness. Simply handling non-airborne/non-ingested lead will not do anything to you. The reason the government is coming out with these regulations is because children typically eat paint dust that settles in the wells and around the floors of old windows coated with lead paint. As a roofer myself, out of all of the residential roofing jobs I have overseen or worked on, I can only think of one or two where (in the attic space while installing a gable vent) I could have been exposed to airborne lead or the homeowners could have been exposed.

Nothing to worry about while roofing unless you are doing combo-jobs of roofing/siding/windows, etc. The contractors who need to worry the most about these regulations are window installers doing HUD or other Federal jobs where following lead abatement routine is now a requirement for even bidding the job. That means one Lead Abatement Supervisor on all jobs and all other employees trained as Abatement workers. Windows will be the biggest area of concentration when they do come knocking looking for Lead-Safe work or Lead Abatement work: remember, though, this only applies to residential properties though!

Removing lead soil stacks is not considered lead-safe renovator-covered work. If you are only planning on being a roofing contractor, I wouldn't plan on needing that certification unless you do other work which may disturb lead-based paint. If you do run across an instance of it, you can always just have the homeowner do that part of the work (Lead-safe rules do not apply to the owners of the house, strangely enough). Be sure that you guys warn homeowners about the danger lead-based paint can have on kids, however, and tell them about these new rules if they plan on doing any work with another contractor that may disturb the paint on the interior!

Thanks, and be safe!

copperman Said: I just signed up for my coarse on April 16. cost $195.00. Did some more reading about the requirements and it seams they are trying to put everybody out of business because nobody is going to be able to afford the extra money it will take to do the work. All cutting and sanding tools will have to have a hepa filters. A ll work areas will have to be covered and taped off so no dust leaves the work area. All areas must be cleaned to a dust free condition. Must inform the homeowner and get signed papers from them. All debris must be contained and covered. Applies if you disturb more then 6 square ft interior of 20 square feet exterior or where children or pregnant women are. $37,500.00 a day fine for non compliance. Have a nice day :(

How many square feet is one lead pipe jack?

I just signed up for my coarse on April 16. cost $195.00. Did some more reading about the requirements and it seams they are trying to put everybody out of business because nobody is going to be able to afford the extra money it will take to do the work. All cutting and sanding tools will have to have a hepa filters. A ll work areas will have to be covered and taped off so no dust leaves the work area. All areas must be cleaned to a dust free condition. Must inform the homeowner and get signed papers from them. All debris must be contained and covered. Applies if you disturb more then 6 square ft interior of 20 square feet exterior or where children or pregnant women are. $37,500.00 a day fine for non compliance. Have a nice day :(

Lanny what do you use to melt the lead in and what are your molds made of? I saw something on the internet saying you could melt it in coffee cans. Well my coffee has come in plastic for about 15 years, so I was going to use an old dutch oven. I just gotta find a ladle that won't melt.

When i was a kid i used to squeeze the lead wieghts on my fishing line with my teeth! :woohoo:

---I melt them down into weight belt molds and sell lead on Ebay for $.80/lb. I always sell out in about 2 weeks. Lanny