How do I install rubber roofing?

Hi,

I'm a homeowner and decided to install my own rubber roof (the old one is leaking). I do most of my own stuff and it seems to be a pretty simple job because the roof is only 14'x16', no vent pipes, skylights, etc. I searched the web, but I couldn't find a step by step on how to install epdm. Here's the supplies I got based on what the sales guy from ABC SUpply told me what I needed:

- Mulehide EPDM 060 10' x 50' Black - Mulehide 10' all purpose bar (qty 5) - Mulehide in-seam tape 3" x 25' - Mulehide water base bond adh (5 gal.) - Atlas 1.0" ISO ACFOAM II 4'x8' (qty 6) - Mulehide water cut-off mastic 11oz (qty 2) - 1 box of 2 1/4" screws (100ct) - 1 box of 3" plate galvalume (100ct)

I know I probably have a bit more material than I need. But I figured I'd overkill...didn't want to skimp on it and run short. I also tried to get the thicker epdm and better insulation board.

Can anyone provide me with a link or some instructions on how to install. Maybe even some do's and don'ts? For example, I'm not sure how much you screw down the fastening plates without damaging the 1" foam boards?

Thanks, Marc

Vaa Fakaosifolau Said: The Forum is a shadow of its former self mmaccaro, a couple of years ago a question like that would have lead to 3 pages of arguements about which way to do it. I was a bit suspicious myeslf when I seen your name , there was a guy here before called macroof, knew everything about epdm you could possibly want to know ( in his opinion anyway), he moved on and became some kind of official on the NRCA.

We have a big issue here in New Zealand with the likes of companies like Mulehide selling epdm to the public. Takes work away from us specialists and from what we seen through the 1990s leads to the product getting a bad name because of shoddy workmanship.

Good luck with it anyway :)

Actually Mike I have a cousin in westport Connetticut named Maccaro (Leo),Don`t hear the name a lot,wonder if this guy is a relative also ????

I think your going to be short on the 4x8 iso... you need 8 pieces and 128 fasteners.

also, you might want to come up under the shingle roof more than10 inches, I would consider removing 6 rows and then going up 24 inches above that, then reshingling back 4 courses, leaving some rubber exposed on the slope.

term bar is an ugly option compared to a well designed edge metal,

just saving you a trip during the middle of the job....

your welcome

that is ONE of the problems with ABC, luckily here we have at least 2 other suppliers where I can get a cut .060 piece-and one of them ALSO sells the latex adhesive in an optional 1 gallon pail

which is nice- more expensive/gallon- but if you use it infrequently and have a small job where you don't want 3 left over gallons going hard on ya- it's nice. stephen

What Mike and Steve said. You can do it, and if you make a mistake, you will have saved enough money to do it again and you can use your experience. Regarding the wider rolls of rubber, I know that ABC will only cut .045 mill rubber to length here. .060 comes in 20 foot wide rolls, but the minumum length is 100 feet. Too much for little project like that!

2 things I notice

1)- I would NOT have bought the 10x50 roll requiring a field splice. Locally----- I would have bought a 20x20 piece cut off a 20x50 roll from my supplier- slightly more/sq. ft. cost for material purchased- but lower cost over all AND most importantly NO splice required- can be a truly seamless installation

2)- the water based adhesive- I have used the product from mulehide as Old School described- there is quite a "fudge factor" built into the product making it handy for a solo install- but I notice if it's warm outside- that wet install method leads to some issues with Bubbles forming under the membranev that never seem to properly adhere-and because the cure rate is so slow I have had a few cases where a diagonal wrinkle formed running across the roof between half the rubber in the shade of the building-and half out in the sun.

I now use Firestones'latex product- which gives me a slight "fudge factor" when positioning the membrane- but once broomed or rolled in gives me virtually no wrinkiles/bubbles as it installs more like a contact cement-still fairly friendly for solo install- but better final product. stephen

ok, thanks guys. This helps quite a bit. Glad I found this forum. :)

there are some videos on youtube or mulehide website.

Thank you for the quick reply. I do have one sloped roof that meets this. I just planned to glue the rubber under the bottom two rows of shingles. I also have two sides with vertical walls and the front is open where the gutter is. They had an all purpose bar on the front side only. The guy from ABC said they should have had them on the side walls as you mentioned. They didn't give me any primer or cleaner...I'll call the guy from ABC back and get that. For the brush that I use to get the sheet in place...any specific type of bristle? Or just a plain old roofing brush will do? The last thing, they didn't give me any screws with the bars...can I just grab some at Lowes/Home Depot that fit the hole? Oh, and should I caulk the screws on the termination bar after I fasten them down? Thanks for the help, I truly appreciate it.

Does it extend up on a pitched roof? If it is just one flat area with no other roofs sloping onto it, then you must have at least one or possibly three walls to flash up onto. You install the insulation board down over the existing roof, and use about 16 plates and screws per sheet. Take them flush! Cut the rubber to size and lay it on the roof where you want it. Lap it on the long edge about 4 inches. Fold it back half way, and roll or brush the water based adhesive onto the insulation; don't let it puddle, but don't push down on the roller when pushing it out. Once you have half of it coated, imediately push the rubber back into place, and broom it smooth. Then, fold back the top half of the rubber and repeat the process. One piece 10' x 16 down. Lay the top piece into place and fold that back half way. DON'T coat the lap joint!, but coat the rest of the insulation with the adhesive and fold and brush the sheet into place. It is now stuck! He should have given you some seam cleaner or primer. Both edges of the rubber have to be cleaned or primed. Let them dry, and then install the roll of seam tape. It has a sticky side on both sides, and one is exposed. That rolls out on the rubber you just cleaned and let dry, You have to then fold the sheet back over the top and peel the platic off from the top of the seam tape and roll it together as you pull the platic off along the seam. It will stick together.

It sounds like you have some vertical walls to deal with on the perimeter. That is what the all purpose bars are for. Normally, the vertical surfaces are adhered using a "Yellow" glue that is just contact cement. You have to place the bars over the rubber and the cut off mastic goes behind the rubber and beneath the bar as you screw the bar into place to hold it on the wall. When you get that much done, come back to us and we will tell you where to smear the 5 gallons of platic cement. Just kidding!

I would normally use a product similiar to the old celotex sheeting for a re-roof aplication for a adhesion surface. The ISO you have will work though. Good luck!