Coating ?

A roof I installed 14 years ago has overstyled chimneys.

The flared part is EIFS foam and (surprise, surprise) when being asked to be a roof instead of a wall, it has worn so thin that water gets through it. Does anybody have any suggestions on a coating that could be applied from the metal cap to the widest part of the flared-out part that would work here? It would need to be clear, white or paintable.

Thanks Stocker, I'll keep it in mind. Right now we're thinking covering the flared part of the chimney with a stainless hipped roof without the curve. It would be prefabbed on three sides, u-shaped so it could be slipped on and the last side soldered on from the uphill roof where it's about armpit height. I'm meeting with a sheet metal guy about feasibility next week.

Stocker, another poster that we don't know anything about. Well done! Sign in on the other post asking where everyone is from. Old School!

If it's EIFS foam, use an acrylic caulk on the thin spots, then go over the whole thing with a urethane coating. ER Systems makes good stuff. Eraguard FG Acrylic caulk to patch, Erathane 300 to finish

I can see where the term Mcmansion could evolve (probably through real estate people) into meaning all or most upscale houses below "mansion" size. But the original meaning was to imply the house had a pretentious illusion of grandeur.

Woody, a "wrap" is simple that. A material you use to wrap aroud something else. Like they used to wrap an old asbestos siding house with aluminum siding back in the 70's. In this case, you wrap or form/preform the top sides of these chimneys with 160z or 20oz copper. "Dirty penny" is a finish for the copper. Just like a brand new copper penny is bright and shiny, but leave it sit out in the sun and it weathers to a dirty penny. It is unlike Patina, which hear generally happens, with a chemical wash to accerlate the composition change, the "dirt penny" finish is just a part of the natural aging process. Two other things I'd like to point out. You may not be able to achieve or keep the "dirty penny" finish in your area because you may have way to much moisture. It will happen, but move so quickly to Patina that you dont realize the dirty penny effect. The secret then would be to catch it at the right time and put a preservative on it to keep it that way. It will be a maintenance item. Here we have no mositure and if someone wants Patina right away we have to acid wash it. Secondly, different parts of the country have different tersm or terminology. We dont have as many multilevel custom homes here. Imagine 10,000 to 30,000 sq ft homes in a single level. Lots of steps from one end to the other. lol

ironically, I clicked on the ad here on RCS for "Through the Roof", and the brushable version of their product sounds like what I was asking about. Will check with them Monday.

First off, I want so say, Rocky I appreciate your presence here. You have quickly became a vital contibutor to keeping energy going on this forum.

As for Mcmansions, you prefer a more generic definition, while I lean towards the more derisive original definition; a multilevel house from about 4 to 6,000' on a tiny lot with a front facade heavy on ornamentation for maximum curb appeal. Usually built by a large builder/developer.

I wasn't trying for a solution for a cheap out, once again, price is not the issue here. I was brainstorming for a coating that might be superior as a roof coating than dryvit, a wall coating that had already failed. Since nobody knew of any coatings and I am not satisfied with those I know of, I never mentioned it as an option to the GC. As for your suggestion for the dirty copper penny wrap, pardon my ignorance to your slang, but I know not what that is. It sounded to me like you were suggesting some kind of copper foil that would come in contact with steel and then spray-painting the steel copper color. Thanks, but no thanks. I dismissed the suggestion but if you want to call it hitting the nail on the head, I'm cool with that.

I have a very direct manor and sometimes people misconstrue that to be anymous or anger, it isn't meant to be.

Thanks for the stand up, OS, But I think I can handle this. Wywoody, your response to my comments on your original post makes it seem to me that you must have thought i was being rude and condensending. Nothing could be further from the truth. Your first comment, You were reaching out for a solution, and I gave you a couple. Now, I have no idea what your talents are, your expertise nor your limitations and it would be presumptous for me to assume anything. Then in your next comment you blasted me for explaining how I would have handled it and upgraded him to a better solution. Next you proceed to tell us all, that, that was exactly what the HO or contractor was going to do. Hell, I hit it on the nail. You wanted a solution for a cheap out and I felt you should have been upselling and now find out you've already repaired the thing 2 years ago. Give me a break. you didn't give all the info. As far as the McMansion comment, that wasn't degrading. From your photo all I can see is 2 chimney's and maybe 15 sq of tile. McMansions in my neighborhood are 5000 to 8000 sq ft. At 8500 you're on the cusp. Geez, I apologize. Most of my work is custom homes. Hundreds of McMansions, 15 -20 for transient ball players. 30-50 Mansions 10,000 to 30,000 sq.ft. Hall of famer Randy Johnson,s 1st and 2nd house. secound one was 32,000 sqft on 5 acres with 3 outbuildings, Curt schilling, Raja Bell, One of the Walmart heirs, Campbell soup heir Dorrance Bennett. I know what McMansions are but I couldn/t see all of your house. The point is it wasn't a dig comment. I feel you miss read my comment as something other than what it was. Trying to be helpful and passing along tips

Once again, there is no selling involved in this or any other dealings I have with the GC. He and his customers account for about 10% of all I do. He seldom asks for even a ballpark on these projects. Even additions. I charge him what I consider to be fair. So either we've somehow developed a trusted relationship over the past 20 years, or I've just been a dummass and shoulda been upselling all this time.

If I am reading Rocky correctly, his point is that you could do the work or run it and make more money than strictly time and material. Unless, you charge $200.00 an hour for your time.

I am sure that the GC is going to do that. It sounds like Rocky is very successful and I can see why in his vision. Offer the best you can think of and don't be afraid of rejection. It is the first step in closing the sale.

Rocky, I was called to locate a chimney leak. Since the same thing had occurred on a different chimney two years ago, I pretty much knew what I would find. In fact, I had warned the builder of the liklihood of this occurring back when I first saw the detail 14 years ago.

I don't know where your line is to something being a McMansion. This house is about 8500 square feet sitting on a 1 acre view lot in West Linn, OR. The house visible in the background of the top picture was owned by basketballer Brian Grant back when we did the roof. Around here, that's a step or two up from McMansion. On many houses of this caliber, the builder still acts as a intermediator as long as the original owner lives there. So he is who I am dealing with.

Selling is not a factor, if they go with stucco I will remove and replace tile for them. If they go with copper caps, I will facilitate access above the tile for them. Whatever solution they go, I will have something to do with it, billing on a time-and-material basis. I actually want the least time-consuming option. The house is 23 miles away, with about half of that usually being stop-and-go traffic.

wywoody: why were you there in the first place? did you not know of their intentions? was your first and maybe only impression was that they just wanted to fix a leak? Are you still in the running for all the repairs? I know, "what's with all the questions?" Here's my point. As soon as I seen the picture's you posted, what flashed thru my brain was, first, "how best to solved my clients problem, long term, and secondly was the style of the house. If I had a 1200sq ft bungalow i would have had a different solution. But from what little I could see, you had a McMansion you were dealing with and most of those people want and can afford to do the upgrade. there are fair to many benefits for this homeowner to turn down the upgraded look. All you have to do is present it to them with the confidence of a professional who knows how to solve the problem and are capable of delivery in a timely fashion. I don't mean to preach to the choir, but sales is the name of the game and then you Must deliver. Sell the best solution and then come down if they can't afford it. The economy is coming back, people are spending more money. All you have to do is ask. So many sales people are afraid to ask for the signature. Well hell, I m not an order taker, I go after the best and I expect to get it.

It looks like thay are going to get bids to either re-stucco all 5 chimney caps or get a custom copper caps made that covers sverything and is lifted on with a crane.

I was thinking of a coating as a possible way to save money and time. I could put on a coating for far less time than It will take just for me to remove and replace tiles for stucco scaffolding. Plus I was hoping a coating might last longer, the first of these chimneys started leaking 2 years ago, stucco-as-a-roof only seems to be good for 12 years.

The style of house looks regal enough to support a dirty penny copper wrap, with a little matching paint on the spark arrestor, cap and edge metal. Never have to restucco that again. The best answer would probably come from a stucco contractor or someone who specializes in EIFS repairs. Not so sure Drivit or an elastomeric would hold to the old crumbly stucco and probably exposed foam backing, but it might. Gotta have a good backing, just like a roof.

If Jacke Legg was here, he would tell you to spread some good old black Mammy on that puppy.

Can't they just install some more of the finish coat Drivit material? Some extra mesh and a couple of coats of that should keep it protected. It is designed for that application, and should adhere too. Just a thought.