English
English
Español
Français

User Access


Ad alt tag
McElroy Metals -  Ad - May 2022
English
English
Español
Français

Air Voids/Bubbles/Wrinkles Flintastic SA Low Slope Installation

« Back To Roofers Talk
Author
Posts
February 23, 2013 at 9:14 a.m.

jefftripe

Hi folks,

I'm a painter by trade and had the "best" roofing company in town do my roof with an additional low slope application of Certainteed Flintastic SA base and cap sheet.

There are a variety of ripples/voids/bubbles in the application which was over an OSB surface on a 70 degree day with sunshine in the Dallas area. The installation is three weeks old.

Two questions:

how much should I be concerned about the air voids?

should the cap sheet overhang the edge of the flashing? I believe the Flintastic SA handbook requires it to be flush?

I keep getting "invalid path" for my pic upload.

Thank you. I am considering having this redone.

February 25, 2013 at 3:24 p.m.

Webmaster Steve

jefftripe

Post the link text and I will see if I can fix it for you

February 25, 2013 at 9:56 a.m.

repairman

Hi Jeff . i would ask "BEST" to come back and roll the roof with the 175# roller. your supposed to roll the flintastic with this to get all the air out. Maybe if they did it would take the air bubles out... MAYBE. keep us posted.

February 25, 2013 at 5:37 a.m.

OLE Willie

I had some problems with wrinkles when i first started using self adhered. I changed to GAF Liberty Cap Sheet and have not had a problem since. Everything goes down smooth and stays smooth.

February 24, 2013 at 9:31 a.m.

Old School

I guess I wrote that wrong. We carry the base sheet over the edge and FOLD it down over the fascia and inch or so and then install the drip edge over it. We prime the drip and then hang the cap sheet over about a half inch for a drip edge. I guess that is wha you guys are doing to. It works!

If you don't overhang the cap sheet, the water will wick back right down the metal and run behind the gutter. The same applies to overhanging the shingles over the drip edge. If one has ever installed gutters, you know how important an overhang is on the shingles. No overhang, and the water will run right behind the gutter.

February 24, 2013 at 8:31 a.m.

wywoody

Since Jeff referred to Flintastic, it should be noted that you should only use Flintprime with that system. It may just be a ploy for Certainteed to make more money, but I would stick with their product.

Also, I haven't had much luck bending the cap sheet down over the edge metal and having it stay bent. I bend down the midply before the metal, put on the metal, seal the top of the metal with Flintbond (more$$for CT) and then put the cap sheet on with just a slight overhang at the edge.

February 24, 2013 at 8:31 a.m.

clvr83

I recently found the spray stuff, awesome. Although more expensive, much handier for small jobs. We run our base sheet over the fascia board too OS, and bend it over if we use heavy drip edge.

We did use to cut our cap sheet even w/ the drip edge on the sides, now we leave a small overhang. I haven't seen any problems w/ my old flush cut roofs that are about 6-8 years old.

edit: To OP - can we get some pics to poke at? Wrinkles are bad mmk.

February 24, 2013 at 7:50 a.m.

Old School

I didn't notice that I had hit that post twice.

We just use some asphalt primer in a spray can. It adheres to the metal and gives a good surface for the S. A. to stick to. You could do it with liquid asphalt, but it has to dry first, and that can take a long time. You need very little of it, just enough to coat the paint on the drip edge.

February 23, 2013 at 5:18 p.m.

jjshaggy

Old school, what do you prime the metal with when using sa modified?

February 23, 2013 at 5:04 p.m.

Old School

We put down the base sheet and carry it over the edge. The drip edge goes on next, it is primed and then the cap sheet goes on with a bit of an over hang. The water can't get beneath anything that way.

February 23, 2013 at 5:04 p.m.

Old School

We put down the base sheet and carry it over the edge. The drip edge goes on next, it is primed and then the cap sheet goes on with a bit of an over hang. The water can't get beneath anything that way.

February 23, 2013 at 3:05 p.m.

jjshaggy

I agree Tinner, I've only done a few sa modified jobs, but I ran my material past the metal too. Just makes sense to me!

February 23, 2013 at 9:28 a.m.

tinner666

I would be very concerned about the voids. They'll get brittle and pop, then leak. As for the drip-edge, I run my material 1/2" over and fold it down somewhat. Later, when it starts separating from the metal, the folded down lip will help most water to go over and off the roof. When flush, if it starts separating, the water goes directly into the roof system creating extensive damage.


« Back To Roofers Talk
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.

Sheridan Tools - Banner Ad - May 2022
English
English
Español
Français

User Access


McElroy Metals -  Ad - May 2022
Ad alt tag

Loading…
Loading the web debug toolbar…
Attempt #