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valley detail

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March 24, 2012 at 12:25 a.m.

egg

"...he was talking some kinda of ridge detail..."

March 23, 2012 at 9:53 p.m.

tinner666

One questiom Max. When in doubt about the slope, I take a bucket of water and pour it down the roof to see what the true flow is. Did you do that?

March 23, 2012 at 9:41 p.m.

Peter1

Nice photos frank,

I would agree with you, maybe bring the water check up to the height of the lath on the low slope with a small return?

That should prevent any over run in very heavy rain, I like the idea of one side closed to the rib in the valley only future problem might be the valley silting up on the closed side.

Pegards,

Peter.

March 23, 2012 at 9:35 p.m.

max

Frank, those are great pics and I use the same detail on same type situations. But look again, this is entirely different. In none of ur pics is the water flow away from the valley. Maybe over it. Tom same thing, Im not worried in the least about dissimaliar pitches, its the fact that I dont want any water to run under the tile away from the valley. Woody, It is on the back side and I have plenty of wakaflex. Hell I could double it ifin I wanted to lol. Those cuts are my concern as well. But looks like you have a good grasp of what I am working with. Tks for all the replies and suggestions. Will be next week till I get to that side so plenty of time to chew on it.

March 23, 2012 at 9:16 p.m.

tinner666

Here's a view from the ground.

March 23, 2012 at 9:10 p.m.

tinner666

Here's one that the slaters closed off the 6/12 side by running the slate over to the V.

Another view. It went from an open channel to a closed channel.

March 23, 2012 at 9:06 p.m.

tinner666

Go old school. Channeled valleys have been around for centuries for those occasions and before felt was known. Of course, use the necessary ribs for the tile too. A slight modification of the normal channeled valley.

Here's a cross view. As you can see, it's only one extra bend. In your case, the steep side will need a mild bend to kick the bottom edge of the tile up some.

March 23, 2012 at 6:36 p.m.

wywoody

Using Wakaflex along with the valley metal is $$$. Way more than just getting something larger fabricated. I only use that stuff where it's truly needed. As for using it for the step flashing. it's not wide enough to get much coverage up on the steep side.

What will ugly up the step flashing and the option 2 is the butts of the tile on the 2 sides will vary continually all the way up the valley. It would be impossible to have a straight line valley cut lapping over the 2" of Wakaflex and have the tile lay flat. It would have to be pieced in with stair-stepped cuts over the butts of the lower side. Hope it isn't on the front side.

March 23, 2012 at 6:15 p.m.

TomB

I don't know either.....

As for the valley detail; 2 - pc flashing; Lower pc; If you went with a 24" S.O.; 10" w/1" turn-up/water rail & mid-point diverter, at the lower pitch/pan side, x 13" up steeper slope. Top pc; I would think, the Waka-flex, would be better than lead.

That looks like a pretty good pitch, so I would think step-flashing would work just fine, as well.

March 23, 2012 at 5:07 p.m.

max

Tom, when I click on the EmailMe button, popup says Could not perform this operation because the default mail client is not properly installed. Dont really know what the heck that means. Maybe it will work on ur end.

March 23, 2012 at 4:52 p.m.

max

Yes I will do. Talked to rep and he was talking some kinda of ridge detail, did not follow that at all. I suggested two dif methods. See if you agree with either or neither. 1. Install step valley with 5" of metal lapped over each indiviual coarse of tiles,on the left/lower pitch side of the valley, and extend 10" or more on the right/ higher pitch side of the valley. Run left side all the way up followed by the right hand side overlapping as a standard valley. He did not like that. Said step flashing does not go well with tile. I kinda agree.

2. Install standard valley metal valley without the W. Install tile on the left side all the way up, extending over the V and butting into the right side. Use their wa-ka-flex product which is a flexable, moldable, flashing with a peel and stick base. Seal to tiles 2" out of valley all the way to the top. Install right side , overlapping tile onto left side, covering most of the wa-ka-flex. He approved this.

March 23, 2012 at 3:51 p.m.

TomB

That's what I figured you had...Dissimilar pitches....Done many-many of those.....It's a hybrid, (so-to-speak),almost a side-wall situation....You'll need to shop-fab, or hav a sht mtl shop bend something up for you. Email me directly and I can send you a detail

March 23, 2012 at 2:44 p.m.

max

Yes, I have been talking to the rep but he hasnt seen the pics or the job , so no help from him yet so I thought I would put it out there. Tks for the reply rocky, u def know tile. Here is the pic.

March 23, 2012 at 1:43 p.m.

Rockydog

Looks like you're having a conversation with someone else already, the way that is worded

March 23, 2012 at 1:42 p.m.

Rockydog

Don't really understand the question, Pictures would help. 3 vee valley is code here for tile work, but sometimes you have to use best judgement and use whats best for the situation.


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