please give me your input

---Done this many times...We seldom tear down to the deck. We spud the gravel for a smooth surface to torch to. We never use granulated as the granules make it harder to seal. Then we torch to the clean spudded area. Pay special attention to protrusions. Depending on the configuration we may torch all the way to the ridge just to make sure we cover the leak. If the leak is in the gutter then we don't go too far from the gutter as that is pretty specific. ---Most such leaks are fairly visable once the gravel is removed. And you can torch a 10x10 area if you have to fairly simply. We use no mastic, tar or sealant at all. Torching to the old roof if it is clean will be watertight. ---We have done dead flat commercial roofs 20sq at a time. At the end of the day we torch our last sheet to the old roof. If we get shut down by bad weather the roof is tight. We pick up again at the seam and do another 20 sq. We have come back several days later to standing water but no leaks. Get out the squeegees & shop vac and then tear off another section. ---You are still leaking because there is another leak or your seal is no good. Emulsion & tar will just make a big mess. Not only that is is hard to torch to. When you seal to the old roof make your seal 12 inches minimum. Even more is better. That is why we do not remove any of the old roof. It is great to torch to. Lanny

Spud back two feet around the patch, mop on three ply glass, feathering each edge, and gravel it in.