Looking for a good website with detailed SPEC's on flat roof repairs

Robby the Roofer Said: Never did like torching a patch over patch. More than not the surface is dirty, it may adhere initially but come apart later. The technique I use (wether it is hot mopped or torch cap) is to cut out affected area and re-patch with mastic and cap sheet over-lapping the old material by at least 6-8 inches, use a 4 inch roller to compress material and get a decent bleed, then dress the bleed with same colored granules.

You don't us a torch at all?>>>

Never did like torching a patch over patch. More than not the surface is dirty, it may adhere initially but come apart later. The technique I use (wether it is hot mopped or torch cap) is to cut out affected area and re-patch with mastic and cap sheet over-lapping the old material by at least 6-8 inches, use a 4 inch roller to compress material and get a decent bleed, then dress the bleed with same colored granules.>>>

The roof consist of concrete deck - tapered foam insl - perlite - 2 ply hot mop - tamko torch cap sheet white granuals.

One spec I found said to loose lay modified smooth versa flex over cracks over 1/2" 6" each side of crack then torch new cap 8" beyond the loose lay.

This equals 40" of material. Seems like over kill & waste of labor & material. My repairs arn't cracks but ridges from movement.

I'm tring to catch it befor it dose crack

I do like the idea of the loose lay in there though to allow for any new movement.

My main ? do I need to cut the ridge out or just cap over it?

Can I loose lay a 6" strip & cap with a 18" strip?

Can I use the cap material for the loose lay?

If so smooth side down or up?

I would send a photo if I new how I can't find directions on how to attach a photo only emotions..

Also a good resource for spec's would nice to have for back up for procedure & presentations>>>

Many here can/will help you, but you gotta ask specific questions>>>