EPDM or Torch Down??

I`ve done plenty,where 1st thing was to tear off the bad roofs poorly torched,I would use the torchdown,Tell them the last one failed for improper installation-I also use waterproof base for torchdown,when you use that base there`s not a lot of difference between 2 ply torch or 2 ply flintlastic SA (USE PLYBASE),The last roofer had to be really horrible to screw up torchdown on a 2 on 12 pitch-GEEZ !>>>

As far as production rates.... i know that one man vs. one man.... I can lay a lot more torch down than one man cold glue down rubber effectively.

I know that if we had three men working it, we could keep up on cut up stuff, while falling behind in wide open field.

I like the torch work. More like a craft than Elmer's glue-all.

And whomever said that EPDM will naturally last longer.... please show me an emperical study done on the subject so that I may be better educated if I am wrong.>>>

Macroof Said: Vaa, Hot roof and cold roof do not refer to where the insulation lies, btw. Maybe it is just another example of NZ specific terminology.

Buildings here have insulation in the ceilings as well, not just a NZ speciality.

I believe a statement in your first response to this post is still your most pertinent, and your number one reason for favoring Torch down, You are set up for it. I just hope you are doing what is in your clients best interest, not what is in yours.

Mac

VAA is using the correct terminology both in NZ nad here in the good old USA. What is the issue?

A warm roof assembly has the insulation on top of the deck, in contact with the waterproofing, while a cold roof assembly has the insulation below the deck, not as a part of the roof assembly itself.

As a super duper roofing pro, you should know this.

Is this the same MacRoofs as before?>>>

Macroof Said: Field material degredation does not START until approx yr 45 for epdm. The life still continues many yrs post.

45 years before surface degredation begins? Bullchit! It starts as soon as the sun hits it.>>>

a hot roof has to do with the presence of heat the uderside can be exposed to. I.e a heated home has a hot roof, the soffit is considered a cold portion of that roof.

Conversely an unheated shed is a cold roof, no heat on the underside.>>>

you need to read the name if the person replying b4 u spout off.

But, like anything else, assuming it is done correctly, EPDM is of better value and will last longer.

>>>

Cold roofs here (on pitched roofs)are meant for cold climates to slow the snow melt process and minimize ice damming on overhangs. Global warming would lead to less of them.>>>

Vaa The best point you made regards the WIND. I find it very hard to believe you can lay more torchdown in a day than rubber memebrane.>>>

Sounds to me ur gettin bad advise from people who havent a clue to install a rubber membrane roof the proper way. The # 1 thing to consider is ur knowledge and the danger of torchdown. #2 Alot less man power installing rubber. #3 The rubber lasts alot longer than torchdown. They both need a layer of atleast half inch substrate-torchdown would require another basesheet on top. The only time screws come through is when not properly tightened or the roof has leaks and thats why ur there.>>>

let me mitigate that last hot roof, cold roof statement, it partially has to do with the insulation.>>>

Vaa, Hot roof and cold roof do not refer to where the insulation lies, btw. Maybe it is just another example of NZ specific terminology.

Buildings here have insulation in the ceilings as well, not just a NZ speciality.

I believe a statement in your first response to this post is still your most pertinent, and your number one reason for favoring Torch down, You are set up for it. I just hope you are doing what is in your clients best interest, not what is in yours.

Mac >>>

Vaa, The epdm roofs we've installed do not ehibit any of the characteristics you have seen (or at the least not near the depth or extent you claim) we have epdm roofs over 3o y/o.

What wd u use for insulation undr the torch down?

>>>

A couple of factors to consider on a job like that are availability and accessibility. If you had a one-piece epdm 30'x42', could you get it on the roof without requiring paying for a crane or forklift? It would have to weigh over 500 lbs. The supplier that I use most is more residential oriented and only has edpm in 10'x100' rolls. On your particular job, you might end up needing only about 5' of a second roll.>>>

Thanks guys....I appreciate advice!>>>

I use the water based adhesive. Much easier and no small at all.>>>