EPDM or Torch Down??

yes Boston..... rozzi= roslindale......?

I know it well..... I agree ..the more plys the better..... whatever the customer wants....

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Agree with Mac on this one. It wasn't a real roof until the 4th ply went down.>>>

I believe that 3-ply shd be the minimum,>>>

"Vaa"

15 years and you still havent tried them ????????????? If you did give them a try there is no way you would compare flashing a rubber roof and a torch-on roof. You ask "brand names" alot are you a salesmen??????

"Buildrr" I have to agree 3ply T&G is the best roof. R u from Boston ?>>>

after re-reading the original post.... for a 10 sq. rental property tying into a shingle job, I would have probably gone with a 3 ply SA mineral surfaced. color to match the shingle job.....and question why the existing failed.

wide open, apples for apples....base sheets and rigid all in place..... rubber is definitely quicker....spray and play..... cut up pig?......I'll take my chances with the Modified torched down......

Ask me to guarantee it with my life.....3 ply pitch and copper >>>

It is really clear the guys pushing the "torchdown" havent a real clue to the "NEW" way of flashing bonding or caulking. You use boots on pipes that are peel and stick (already have sealant) Stripping in the metal trim also is a peel and stick with sealant. You can also use flashings on the corners with sealant. All this making rubber roofing ALOT faster than torch-on. Once again any one who thinks torch on is faster must be a GOOFER not a roofer.>>>

You no longer need to black glue for pipe boots, they are taped, so worse case scenario, patch the slice going into the pipe (if their is one) prime the epdm, slide down pipe boot, peel tape backing, press in, roll, caulk top, clamp!

Vaa, you can be both big and good you know. SOme thing it is either or, it doesn't have to be.>>>

when you think about how much roofing someone like Tecta America and all of it's licensees, or General Roofing, or Tremco, or whatever conglomerate is on the podium.... they install brazillions of squares......never a problem...blah blah blah.

We all agree that if they let the roofers on the roof before everyone else, a football field so to speak...then production becomes a pleasure..... but start doinking around every penetration, and every accessory that the manufacturer recommends to marry their roof product to the penetration product, then we got a ball game. Ideally....I would want to have an open field before everyone else starts cutting into my work, and the option of being offered an addendum by the penetrating subcontractor to tie in their work, rather than have one of their hot shot guys go up with a caulking gun and do what they thinks best. Because when it gets right down to it, you , the roofer are responsible, and allowing "joeshit the rag man" to silicone his pipe flashing onto your firestone job is a mistake made by both...him doing it, and you allowing it.

I'm still a proud advocate of pitch and copper.... >>>

Does that include the glue flashing off? aplying the lap seal, clamp, etc?>>>

I think you may be a hopeless case VAA

We install Firestone. And the numbers I wrote are correct, I understand if you don't believe it. But with the right equipment, mentality, attitude, people and gameplan, and the desire it can be acheived

regarding the approx 45 yr to major degredation, that comes from the manufacturer. And seeing as how we have roofs still performing at about the 30 yr mark their calculations appear to be correct. The hot and cold roof is based mostly upon the presence of heat to the underside of the sheathing that is roofed, you own pics show that, if there is a space, the the heat from the building gets dispersed in that cavity.

Vaa I wd suggest you don't limit yourself to what others do, or say can only be done, and go beyond that. Work hard and you can exceed current limits. Too many pple see what the industry "norm" is on things like volume and qaulity and they adhere to that.

You can move beyond and help the industry as a whole evolve. >>>

Mike Hicks, Thank You sir...that was a very useful post for me and I know you have done a ton of this stuff. Thanks buddy!

Mike from NZ.....thanks for that link and your website is a nice, helpful place. I like the link to the book you offer.

All others...thanks for your input and help. I am just trying to learn.

Thanks!>>>

I dk what I cd do for time on a torch down stink pipe aaron, it has been about 15 yrs, but It wdnt take more than two minutes to do it with epdm.>>>

and let me clarify a cple things,I know that the degredation starts immediately, what I was trying to say was that at yr 45 (approx) is when crosses that demarcation line to where the product level of breaking down, and subsequent degredation will have a marked affect on performance.

Also, Mike, For about the last 30 yrs we have been almost exclusively epdm installers, when prior to that, like most others, we were mostly asphalt based, primarilly B.U.R There is still Two of the aeroil tanker trucks parked in the yard.

And, BTW I do not believe that an FA epdm roof is the best, if cost was not a factor I would rather a b.u.r (at least 5 ply) Probably an old owens corning double eagle wd top that list.

But, with that being said, single ply has done extremely well, when I say that we have roofs down for approx 30 yrs and they are still performing as they should, I meant it.

Btw, I didnt put down torch down, I just believe, an allbeit more based on what i know about epdm and How I now to install it, that it is a better overall value.

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Aarron, how wd u say it takes you to flash a stink pipe via torch down and how long for EPDM?>>>

I have installed 100 EPDM squares a day with two other guys. I dont like the roof.

Yes, on a cut to shit job, EPDM isnt as fast I can flash a stink pipe as fast as you can. On the right jobs mod bit can be faster. Just the way it is.>>>