Deck Fill Material 4 Ponding Area?

Area is too small for ponding pump or JoSam. Looking for that fill material that is dry, not the cementicious stuff that requires water. Anyone know the product I'm referring to?

Yeah I get it. I try to stay away from Chicago too, but since I live across the street, literally, it doesn't happen. I'd move tomorrow if my wife would let me, oh and if we weren't upside down on our mortgage too.

Nah, don't think we've really interacted before. I tend to stay away from Chicago and all things related!(except the sox)

I got an SIU buddy from Medinah about to come down and visit though. He's still a loudmouth butthead.

Got it. I am from Chicago. If we had this conversation in the past, forgive my poor memory.

By Carbondale which is about an hour from the bottom of the state.

Clover, where in IL are you?

Yep the State of Florida is a licensed state all professions need to be licensed, when we had to move A/C units we had a licensed A/C contractor, even though I was a licensed GC and Roofing contractor We had employed a Registered PE and Mechanical contractor you ould not make a move without using a licensed contract, just a note any sub contractors had to hold the required license

You install the piping to the outside of the building too? I've always had a plumber contracted in to the job to do that, but I've only got a notch on the belt compared to you in that department.

I merely assumed that requires a licensed plumber. Maybe that's just IL

For smaller area where we could not install a roof drain we used a solar powered pump and shot the water to a drainage system, we installed about a total of 50 solar pumps over the years and probably 200 3 and 4 inch deck drains I thought i was a plumber on one shopping center we did it required over 150 drains plus all of the hardware, transmission downspouts collection boxes and etc

paraslope is a lot lighter than sand as the asphalt binder keeps some air in the mix. It's also much more permanent, ie: once tamped in place it won't displace under foot traffic. Good stuff for the purpose.

That's the only reason I could think of not to use it! One good point about this house is that it has two steel beams running through this carport, so it can't sag too much. Turns out this house made the Chicago Tribune(?) for it's architecture in the sixties.

Clover, the "problem" with the sand is that you are going to put the weight of the sand on the very spot that is weak. It will probably make is sink even more and you will be compounding the problem. Is there any way to just use Styrofoam and cut it to fill the middle and then just bridge over it with a tapered system? Maybe go tapered from 0 to 3 inches at the middle and then go the 3 inches the rest of the way, following the slope of the hole? Just a thought.

Found this while searching Google, thought I'd ressurect it...

I've got a 20x24 w/ about a 2" pond in the middle. -Almost dead level, but needs to go one way. -Tearoff tar & gravel. Should I sand, or paraslope? Then throw tapered insulation over it. -Also thought about re-pitching w/ sister rafters, but that seems excessive. What do you think? Could I just put sand down and insulate over it for the easiest solution??

Mike H Said: So how did it work?

A strange set of circumstances went into getting this job. I left the door open to inspect the deck before being committed. Upon close inspection the deck was weak in several areas so I declined the job.

When we're training Kold Kingers one of the lessons my dad teaches is: Don't buy someone else's headache. This job would have been buying someone else's headache.

So now we have 15 bags of Paraslope setting in the shop.

So how did it work?

The first mistake guys tend to make is over-estimating quantities.....estimating x depth vs. X to Zero depth. But heck...you can always take whatever is left over, back to the supplier for restocking.

Don't forget to clean the area and make sure it is thoroughly dry. Prime the area where the paraslope will be applied as well as where the new roof material will extend or tie-in to the existing roof surface.Follow the directions for adhesive and fill material application. Screed and level the material with a board the same as you would do with concrete. Layout Visqueen poly sheet over the material and lay some thin plywood, OSB or even densdeck as a walking surface to allow a thorough compaction with a lawn roller and a hand tamper, diasassemble the poly and walking surface as you install the roof material.

The fill material itself is a bit "bouncy" and will recover a bit when it is compressed....it really never fully hardens or cures out so it can easily be added to or removed to achieve desired results. Assuming you are working with a mod bit membrane, the first ply of membrane needs to be adhered in cold adhesive...i don't think I would consider trying to adhere by torching or hot asphalt. the second ply if required, can be torched but adhesive can also be used.

I hope this helps.